We gave the Kraton area one more chance in the daylight. Finding the entrance to the Kraton coming from the south is no small feat and the people we asked were giving contradictory directions but we found the Taman Sari (Water Palace) and visited it first. The guide explained us that this used to be the sultan’s water park and swimming pool, built in the mid 18th century. It was abandoned after an earthquake destroyed it in 1865, with most of the lakes and gardens occupied now by houses, but the main swimming pools have been restored and are still there. Two enclosed swimming pools would be used by the sultan’s many wives and children, while the third one would be used only by the sultan and the wife that he would choose to accompany him by calling from a balcony.
Of course, the tour around the Water Palace ended in a batik and leather puppet workshops and galleries, where we were expected to buy something. Batik is the art of dyeing textile with all kinds of patterns and pictures and it seems to be a local specialty in Yogyakarta. Leather puppets are used for shadow puppet theatres, which depict Ramayana (the most important mythical story in South and South East Asia). The puppets are cut and carved out of buffalo skin. We managed to get away without buying anything although it was really difficult after all the convincing that we should support the local handicraft culture and that things within the Kraton district are cheaper because there are no taxes.
We then finally found the main entrance to the Kraton just in time to catch the gamelan (Southeast Asian classical music) and local dance performance there. Gamelan is played on various instruments many of which look like a mix of xylophone, gong and drum. The harmonies and rhythms of gamelan are rather different from western classical music and therefore it sounds for us sometimes a bit like cacophony, but the whole set up really looks impressive and sophisticated. The dance performance was quite interesting – there were only three dances, but in total it lasted about an hour. Dancers and their moves were very mellow and slow, but quite enchanting.
While we were waiting for the performance to start, some locals would go around the audience with children who were perhaps only 5 or 6 years old and encouraged the kids to have conversations with foreigners to practice their English. The children were quite shy and could not talk much yet, but taken their young age, they were brave and smart enough.
After the show we looked around Kraton and its museum. It had some nice items, but overall we did not find it breathtakingly remarkable.
From there, we headed towards Malioboro, which is the main street of Yogyakarta. It has a lot of bazaars, which seemed very popular among locals in a Sunday noon. So it was quite crowded there. We had lunch in the neighbourhood and made plans for upcoming days.
We decided to go to see the Prambanan temple that afternoon, as it could be reached with the TransYogya bus from Malioboro. It’s about 17 km out of town and the ride there took about an hour.
There are actually a range of temple complexes around that area, but we went to see only the most famous of them. Prambanan temple complex was built in the middle of the 9th century some 50 years after Borobudur. It used to have 200 small (about 14 metres high) temples around it and 10 bigger temples in the middle. Most of the small temples have been destroyed in the earthquakes, but the bigger temples still stand there or have been restored. Out of those temples, there was one temple for each of the three main Hindu gods and one temple for their “vehicles” (Brahma’s goose; Shiva’s bull Nandu and Vishnu’s big man/bird Garuda). The galleries of the inner walls of the temples depicted different stories, most importantly of course scenes from the Ramayana. Our guide gave us a lengthy overview of the different symbols and figures around and provided his own quite interesting comparison of different religions (Hindu, Islam, Buddhism and Christianity).